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Mengusovský peak 2432 m.a.s.l.

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Mengusovské štíty  ( Mengusovské peaks) are magnificent and atracctive for climbers  from the both sides. They are very impressive  from the Polish side , especially north face  with it´s hight more than 1000 meters which protrudes over the mountain lake Morskie oko.


History:

The first ascent to Veľký Mengusovský peak (Big Mengusovsky peak) was a significant event in development of Tatra´s mountain climbing.The participants were  Ludwik Chalubinski with the guides Wojciech Roj and  Maciej Sieczko on 28th June 1877. Frontman of this exciting event was not an experienced climber, but just 16 years old student-  Ludwik Chalubinski . He inherited love to the Tatras from his father Tytus Chalubinski, who was one of the legendary experts of Tatra´s and his second home was in Zakopane.


The summits of  Východný (Eastern)  and Prostredný (Middle) Mengusovský peak still stayed untouched quarter century. The first people on Východný (Eastern) were Antónia a Karel Englisch on 9th August 1903 with the mountain guide Ján Franz sr. and on the summit of Prostredný (Middle) stayed six days after them the son of russian  emigrant and Polish woman – an engineer  Wlodzimierz Boldireff and industrialist from Krakow Stanislaw Porebski.


Present:

Starting point is at Popradské pleso 1500 masl. We keep going till the end of Mengusovská dolina and we will come to the biggest mountain lake of slovakian side of High Tatras - Veľké Hincovo pleso. Here we turn off from the tourist path and we go round the lake to the walls of Mengusovské peaks. We rope up and climb up at the beginning by easier path and later by a steep rocky terrain  difficulty  II under the ridge . We have to traverse nearly lying  and after short steep section we will climb up to the ridge. From there it will take just few minutes to reach the summit of Mengusovský peak.


We can choose from more ascent routes :

- Veľký Mengusovský štít ( Big Mengusovsky peak),

- Prostredný and Veľký (Middle and Big) Mengusovský štít  via Droga po glazach,

- Východný Mengusovský štít (Eastern Mengusovsky peak),

- the ridge of  Mengusovske peaks


Big Mengusovsky peak

Elevation:   930 m 

Difficulty: middle

Duration:  8 hours


Bradavica 2476 m.a.s.l.

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Bradavica is located at the side ridge of High Tatras , it is heading from Východná Vysoká between Velická and Veľká Studená dolina. Bradavica is the highest peak of this ridge with its altitude  2476 masl . It is ramified  here to the massif of Slavkovský štít and Velické granáty.

Bradavica has four summits, it takes its name from their shape. Each summit is labeled by four cardinal points . There is the Saddle of Bradavice in between.

 

History:

 

The first successful and historically proved ascent to the two highest peaks of Bradavica was made by Polish people Edward and Jan Koelichen, Franciszek Krystalowicz, Kazimierz Przerwa-Tetmajer, Tadeusz Zelenski-Boy and mountain guides Klimek Bachleda, Jan Bachleda Tajber, Jozef Haziak a Jan Obrochta Tomkowy on  14th August 1892.

 

Present:

There are more ascent routes to the summit of Bradavica. Starting point is at hotel Sliezsky dom.

- below Rohatá veža,

- via Zvodná lávka,

- from Východná Vysoká by ridge and via Zvodná lávka

 

Elevation: 800 m

 

Difficulty: depending on the chosen route, for example below Rohatá veža : medium

 

 

Duration: 6 - 8 hours

Lomnický peak 2634 m.a.s.l.

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What was Kriváň for Liptov citizens, the same was Lomnický peak for people in Spiš . They were convinced that Lomnický peak is the king of the Carpathians, the highest Tatra´s peak full of golden chambers, proud, defiant and maybe even unassailable. Because of this Spiš citizens  called „theirs highest“  in last years with  unconcealed esteem Dedo (Grandpa).


History

The first person about whom we know reliably he reached the summit of Lomnický peak was an english traveler Robert Towson on 17th August 1793 but the most correct view probabelly is that golddigers from Spiš had an opportunity to look around from the top of this peak and see the wide surroundings already before him.  Very likely they were members of  Fábry´s shoemaker family . They were tempting their mining fortune on the north slopes of Lomnický štít – Medené lávky - by the primitive methods. It was a Sisyphean toil. They were longing for gold, but their leather bags  where they were carrying chopped ore  via Nemecký rebrík, or by the similar dangerous route by Veľká zmrzlá dolina to their hovel below Zelené pleso were filled just with malachite and bits of silver. Jakub Fábry sr. who was the farmer on Medené lávky cca 1760 – 1790 himself told that he reached the summit of Dedo but he didn´t claim someone from his genus could do it before him.


Present:

There are more ascent routes to the summit of Lomnický peak :

- from Lomnické saddle,

- via Medené lávky,

-  by Nemecký rebrík (Deutsch  ladder)  and Medenými lávkami,

- Jordánova route,

- via Téry couloir. 

The most easy is the ascent from Lomnické saddle, it is suitable for begginers. We use cable car and chair lift to get from Tatranská Lomnica to Lomnické saddle. 


Elevation: from  Lomnické saddle  443 m

Difficulty: easy

Duration: 4 hours


Prostredný hrot 2441 m.a.s.l.

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Prostredný hrot is the highest peak of Prostredný hrebeň ( Middle ridge) , It is the side ridge of Široká veža (Wide tower) and it runs from the main ridge of  High Tatras to the south.

 

History:

 

Dr. Edmund Viliam Téry came for the first time to the High Tatras in 1875. He was a doctor of poor miners , climber and hiking organizer from Banská Štiavnica. He admired noticeable and attractive Prostredný hrot from the terrace of  Rosie´s hut below Hrebienok. He tryed to find some informations  how and from which side he can get there but  everyone told him, it is impossible. He studied literature about High Tatras written by Hunfalvy, Sydow, Sonklar and Fuchs. He hadn´t read anywhere about an earlier ascent to Prostredný hrot, what even escalated his intetest of this summit.

Téry has examined Prostredný hrot from Lomnický peak with  the guide and teacher from Nová Lesná Ján Still on 5th August1876. He´s seen „corridor“ and after the agreement  with the guide  they  chose it as an ascent route to the untouched summit via Saddle  in front of Prostredný hrot. They successfuly reached the summit  on 11th August 1876. The other participants of this first ascent were also Samuel Horvay – gamekeeper  and Pavol Schwartz from Vienna.


Present:

There are more  routes to the summit. Starting point for all of them is  Hrebienok.

- via Dubkeho lávka

- via Prostredný hrebeň (via Middle ridge) 

- via Bránička (via Small gate)

 

Elevation: 1157 m

 

Difficulty: hard

 

Duration  : 8 hours

Vysoká 2537 m.a.s.l.

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History:

 Hungarian geographer Móric Déchy was already an experienced alpinist, when he arrived to the High Tatras for the first time in 1874 to reach some new summits.

Date of  hike to Vysoká was on 3rd September 1874.

Dr. Déchy set target and the hiking route  and mountain guides Ján Ruman-Driečny jr.from Štôla and  Martin Spitzkopf from  Nová Lesná were just his companions.It seems they´ve been aware of unusual qualities of their „client“.and it was not easy for them to accept his resolutions. Ruman took an atypically modest opinion when he claimed before hike :"where my father´s foot didn´t stand, I cannot get myself " ( Ruman´s father was well known mountain guide ). Spitzkopf didn´l like the idea to rope up with the client and Ruman. He claimed that he doesn´t want to die with the others. Finally all three succesfully reached the summit.Their path led from Kotlinka pod Dračím sedlom by the southwest crack  to the southeast and from there up to the northwest summit of Vysoká. Up there the successful threesome drank  bottle of champaigne , hoisted small flag and Déchy put under a rock pyramid an envelope from impregnated canvas with a short message about the ascent.

 Present:

Nowadays ascent follows the Déchy´s first ascent line. Starting point is at Popradské pleso, heads to Zlomisková dolina via Kotlinka pod Dračím sedlom to Dračie sedlo. From there by the southwest crack  and via central couloir to the summit of Vysoká

 

 Elevation: 1060 m

 Difficulty: medium

 Duration:  7 - 9 hours

 

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